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Camera/POV: low waterline housing, slightly ahead and to her left, so the curving wave forms a tunnel around her; keep head and board fully in frame. Pose: compact stance, front fingertips skimming the wave face, rear hand low by the rail, knees flexed, eyes forward with a natural smile.
This creation was not made on NightCafe.
DALL-E 3
Created with Sora

Surfing the pipeline much better than wipeout.